WINTER PROTECTION
It isn't recommended that palms be planted in the ground until they are at least a 3 gallon size plant. This will give them a better chance of survival although some may survive by planting at a younger age. The larger the palm is at planting time, the better chance of survival and the Spring season is the best time to plant palms although mid-late summer success can be achieved as well.
That being said, The following winter, and two more winters (a total of 3), smaller palms should be protected in zones 7-8 for temperatures that drop below freezing.
If you are planting a larger trunked palm such as a 6 foot Sabal Palmetto, and planting it early enough for it to establish a good root system, winter protection may not be necessary for our climate in South Carolina.
There are many ways to protect your newly planted young palm, and I'm going to describe one method I like to use, but you may decide to choose a method of your own.
Small trunked palms can be protected by wrapping the trunk with a double layer of Burlap cloth material, and an additional wrapping of C9 string of lights only to be lighted during very cold snaps. If you don't know what C9 lights are, they are the larger type Christmas lights that some use to decorate their houses with.
Removal of a few of the lower fronds may be necessary to accomplish this with such palms as the Mexican Fan Palm, and the California Fan Palm.
Sometimes, just the string of C9 lights is enough protection for trunkless palms that you cannot wrap with burlap.
Loosely wrapping with Frost Cloth is another method of protection many use.
Some even construct a wire cage around their palms and fill with such materials as Pine needles or oak leaves and then cover the entire enclosure with plastic to keep out moisture.
Whatever method bests suits your situation, and that you use, keep in mind that the more your palm matures, the more cold hardy it becomes, meaning the less you need to protect it.
Always choose a cold hardy variety thats suited to your climate, and you won't be disappointed later.
Check out the photo gallery for palms that do well in South Carolina landscapes.
Fertilization
This method works best for me here in a zone 8a southeastern US climate. I fertilize 3 times per growing season which basically starts March1st and usually ends by mid September.
For established palms, fertilize early April, June, and again in August with a well balanced fertilizer that also has the trace minerals that a palm needs. One such product is called Carl's Palm Food.
Ordinary plant and lawn fertilizers don't contain the minerals that a true palm fertilizer does.
There are other brands of palm fertilizers on the market that work well too but be sure the one you choose is a slow release one .For a newly planted palm,
wait until you see signs of growth before fertilizing for the first time.
This may mean waiting until the following year before fertilizing, depending on the species of palm and the time of year you are planting it.
You don't want to fertilize too close to the cold winter months because this will prevent your palm from slowing its growth in preparation for Winters colder months.
Palms must slowly acclimate to colder temperatures for best survival.
A good soil test is also recommended for superior results.
Dried out and brown palm fronds
There will come a time when your palm trees fronds turn brown and dry after a winter season and you may wonder if your palm is dieing or already dead.
If its early spring when you notice this, your palm may have only experienced minor winter burn, and may not be dead.
Give it some time before you decide to remove it. Possibly it will recover from the winter damage.
If the new spear doesn't come out with a gentle tug, it's certainly still alive, but even if it does pull out, your palm may still recover with time. Washingtonia Robusta (Mexican Fan Palms) are notorious for brown dead leaves during winter, but will recover quickly and a new crown of fronds will develop by early summer.
